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Only 100km for today to Murghab, since we want to start the part with the At Baikal only early morning. We learned that one team had to spend a night up there, which is not very healthy for untrained mountaineers.


Quite good roads brings us to Murghab at lunchtime. There we meet a team currently departing, which solves our filter problem. They have more than enough with them.


Murghab is a mountain village at about 3600 meters altitude, so even the visit of the Bazar and the return to the hotel are a felt marathon. A quiet afternoon, with filter change and a lot of relaxing - Every move is a hard one, even having a sh.. makes you breathing hard.


Greetings to Berling und thanks again for the hotspot, which helps us to find out that the problem with Mongolia is finally sorted out.


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Up into the Pamir. M41 towards Murghab, which is 300 kilometers away. The road conditions include everything from good to bad until worst and even Georgia-wise.


After 100km the car suddenly stops. In the middle of nowhere. Luckily we find out that it is only the fuel filter. Lacking a spare one, we simply pierce it with a piece of wire (remember? One of the three essential bits to have in the car) and hope to get a new one in Murghab. For the first time we reach altitudes above 400 meters. 4300 this day. At the end of the day we have only 200km and find a homestay in Tavildara. Cold windy, no water, hard beds, but awesome food.

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Finally the roads become a bit better, at least sometimes. No problem to reach Khorogh in the early afternoon. Finding a hotel where another teams is already waiting for a mechanic who promised to come to the hotel (it is sunday). Returning after a late lunch the mechanic was really on site and we get an appointment for the next day at the garage. In the evening we find out that the city is crowded with cars wearing red stickers.


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Next break day to take care of the car. This is done within a couple of minutes, so we take care of ourselves. Khorogh is a nice mountain town, with a decent park, including a freezing cold public pool.


The two Restaurants, we figured out for dinner do not exist anymore. We end up in a pub with some locals drinking Vodka. So we also have a bottle of Vodka instead of dinner.


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Another day on bad and even worse roads. After passing a hill with 3000 meters we find a mechanic who gives us some fat for our car, a bit later we almost loose our battery and the road is still getting worse. We stop driving when it is getting dark, join a camp of other teams and finish our day with a steak we got earlier in a town.


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